Welcome aboard dear reader,

Ahmedabad, The World Heritage city!   Our city Our pride.

A peacock call in sync with azaan (a call for prayer) from the dome of Jama Masjid. It is the time for namaz (Islamic prayer ), just then the temple bells begin their incessant clanging for the evening aarti (prayer with diyas). The back drop is bathed in sunset at its brightest on the banks of Sabarmati.Such is the benediction of faith, confluence of culture, customs and traditions of several religions that co-exist as ONE in Ahmedabad!

Let me take you on a kaleidoscopic tour of Ahmedabad (or Amdavad as it is locally and lovingly called). Although the original names were Bhadra, Karnavati, Rajnagar and Asaval in different eras.

Retracing the period some 600 years ago, Sultan Ahmed Shah laid the foundation of his new capital, Ahmedabad at Bhadra in 1411 A.D.

It is believed that once Emperor Ahmed Shah had gone hunting on the banks of the river Sabarmati. It is here that he saw an intriguing sight. A rabbit was chasing a hound rather than the other way around! Captivated by the undaunted courage of the rabbit, the Emperor sensed rare sensibilities, vibrant energy and bursting optimism here. He decided to shift his capital almost immediately on the banks of Sabarmati.

Another reason for the King shifting his base to this land was, he fell in love with Teja, the gorgeous daughter of Asha Bhil who lived in Ashawal (Astodia) and later married her.

In the honour of four Ahmads - himself (Ahmad Shah 1), his religious teacher Shaikh Ahmad Khattu, Kazi Ahmad and Malik Ahmad, this place got its name as Ahmed Abad!

The first city square called Manek Chowk was established in the honour of the legendary Hindu saint Maneknath. Traditionally, in this city-center precious metals and gems were traded. Even today, some of the oldest jewellery shops are located here.

It is a unique place that throbs as a vegetable market in the mornings, jewellery bazaar till late noon, (the second biggest in India) and a food court at night!

The Grand Bhadra Fort was built starting from Manek Burj on the eastern bank of river Sabarmati. In those days, the fort complex was used as a royal court which was breath taking with its lush green gardens, massive gates and mosques. Inside the fort was the palace, just as magnificent reflecting Mughal architecture in heavily embellished balconies and arches.

The most interesting part is Bhadrakali temple which is also within the Bhadra fort. The Bhadrakali temple is as old as the city. The story behind it is, the watchman - Siddique Kotwal’s recognized Goddess Laxmi and requested her not to leave the fort until he obtained permission from the king. It was night (an inappropriate time) to disturb the king also the loyal Kotwal wanted Goddess of Wealth to stay so he eventually beheaded himself. (such was his sacrifice).

It is believed that  Goddess Laxmi still patiently waits for the Kotwal and fiercely protects and overlooks the prosperity of this city.

The huge clock that stands tall today at the Bhadra Fort Tower came all the way from London in 1878.

The old part of the walled city has twelve gates called Darwajas(gates). Each one is unique, fascinating and strategically placed.

Teen Darwaja, the three arched gates was an entrance to the royal square where processions and polo games took place in those times.

For many generations, a Muslim family (Jafarbhai Mirza’s famly) lights a lamp here and keeps it unextinguished. Such is the spirit of religious harmony!

The fissures in religion came much later and were created by political parties for their vested interests thus, the riots. Nevertheless as the fundamentals were right, the city and its people over a time healed that too.

Beautiful mosques embellish the old city.

Jama Masjid is the oldest and the most significant mosque as it allowed women to pray inside the mosque which was other wise uncommon. It was built with beautiful yellow sandstone. The intricate carvings showcase a rare jugalbandi in lotus and detailed lattice designs that blend in harmony. But, the most striking feature of the mosque is its unique meshwork in the main prayer hall that allows illumination inside the mosque without any direct sunlight. The tombs of Sultan Ahmed Shah, his son and grandsons are here.

Rani no Hajiro (tombs of the Queens), is an enclosed courtyard rather than a chamber. It is now a colourful and a vibrant market to occasionally shop for traditional clothing, dainty trinkets and magnificent jewellery in silver metal, beads and stones.

The artistic Sidi Saiyyed’s Masjid is a distinguished symbol of Ahmedabad built in 1573 A.D. It has beautifully carved jaails depicting the Tree of Life. Light enters through the jaalis and create a stunning rhythm with sunbeams during the day and moon light at night.

The Sarkhej Roja Mosque is beguiling. A mausoleum along with a mosque was built in the honour of a Sufi saint Shaikh Ahmed Khattu Ganj Baksh who was a special adviser to Sultan Ahmed Shah. He was wise and known for his spiritual powers.The saint lived for 111 years and had decided to spend his later years in a quiet environment of Sarkhej, away from the city. 
Mahmud Begada completed the mosque in 1451 A.D. by excavating a central tank and adding more magnificence with pavilions and a small private mosque.

This Mosque has always been a place of repose and meditation. The loudest sound here probably is that of the tweeting of birds. The Mosque comes alive, beautifully on a full moon night.

Jhulta Minaras (or Shaking Minarets) which are a part of the Sidi Bashir Mosque are an engineering and architectural marvel! The best of architects and engineers have been unable to solve the mystery of their simultaneous vibrations till date.

Much of it was destroyed in 1753 during the war between the Marathas and the Khan of Gujarat Sultanate. Now only the minarets and arched central gateway remain gracefully and magnificently tall.

         

Rani Rupmati mosque is the most exquisite gem of the city with its fusion of Hindu-Islamic art and ornamentation engraved in the pillars. The mosque was named after Rani Rupmati, the Hindu wife of the Sultan Mehmud Beghara Unfortunately, this  mosque suffered massive damage during an earthquake of Kutch in 1818.

Dada Hari stepwell, Jetha bhai ni vav and Adalaj ni vav are also spectacular examples of Islamic and Jain patterns seamlessly fusing and reflecting ethos of those times.

Adalaj Vav is also called Rudabai Vav named after a beautiful queen Rani Roopba. There is a heart wrenching story behind it.

People in Adalaj were suffering from a water crisis and had to walk miles to get water for their daily needs. Thus, their king Rana Veer Singh decided to build a step well. 
Unfortunately, he could not conclude the work as he died in a battle against Mahmud Begada. The new Muslim ruler got deeply enchanted by the queen’s beauty and proposed her to marry him. Queen Rudabai put a condition to Mahmud Begada to complete the unfinished work of the Vav that being the final wish of her late husband, Rana Veer Singh.The Sultan kept his word and made momentous efforts to complete the step-well.It is a stunning fusion of Hindu, Jain, and Islamic traditions which no photograph can do justice. Unfortunately, once the Adalaj step well was completed, Rudabai decided to end her life, as a mark of devotion towards her husband. 

Among hundreds of magnificent Jain temples, Hutheesing Jain Temple is a visual delight. Throughout the old city there are several ancient Jain temples. To name a few, Ashtapad temple in Doshiwada pol, Sametshikhar temple in Mandvi-ni-Pol, Mahavir Swami temple at the corner of Patasha pol and Shri Manibhadraj temple in the street of Rupam Cinema.

There are many more fascinating heritage monuments which are architectural wonders in itself, in and around Ahmedabad city.  But let us move from memorials towards the ‘pulse’ of this place.

Along its architecture the city has rich literary heritage.

Akha, a goldsmith by profession was one of the most loved and famous Gujarati poet well known for his easy but fascinating chhappas (rendering philosophy in a verse). He wrote 746 chhappas in that period, some of which have found a place in school text and a read delight to read by children and adults alike!

Kindness and Compassion for one and all is what makes this city uniquely outstanding. 

Back in historic times,Hindus often celebrated the beginning of Ramadan month by sending golden laddoos (sweet made with fragrant khoya and boondi) to their Muslim neighbour. 

This amalgamation of living together in peace is reflected in Pols (One of a kind living culture seen rarely in the world).

Pols are ingenious housing clusters in the old part of the city with narrow lanes just enough for pedestrians and bicycles to commute. Closely knit communities still live together in harmony depending on common vocation, religion etc.

The old city had about 360 Pols, the oldest being the Mahurat Pol. The biggest pol of Ahmedabad is known as Mandavi-ni-pol. 

These houses are small but beautifully carved in wood and fresco work. They have an internal courtyard (chowk) open to the sky.  People spend time together for work, chitchat and play. An underground water tank is intelligently placed to harvest rainwater from the rooftops, thus providing enough water throughout the year to the family.

Havelis or the Big mansions were where wealthy people use to reside earlier. They have now moved to the new part of the city. Daheli, (the wooden entrance gate) had spectacular carvings on it and a lacquered Swing (Hinchko) was a part of every household.

A particular highlight of these Amdavad ni Pols was a Chabutaro (a bird feeder) nestled majestically in the common courtyard specially to welcome, shelter, feed and quench the thirst of the birds.

One of the best feature of this city is that  people not only live but work together as one unit, irrespective of caste and creed. The vision of people here is sculpted meticulously in dhandha (enterprenurship). An Amdavadi knows trade, be it big or small.

This spirit was sown by Sultan Ahmed Shah who encouraged merchants, weavers and skilled craftsmen to settle down in Ahmedabad, thus enhancing his capital into a flourishing place. Not just textile and trade but Ahmedabad was also famous for gold, silk, and carved-wood work.

The city grew and attained a cosmopolitan character within the first hundred years after its foundation.

During the British rule, nine bridges were built across the Sabarmati River. Thus, the new part of the walled city was established on the other side of the river Sabarmati.  After that, the landscape of the city nurtured a rich mixture of Islamic, Hindu, Jain and European architecture.

It was during the British Raj that Ahmedabad was called the Manchester of India because of its thriving cotton textile mills. This was a golden era where trade flourished in leaps and bounds.

After Mumbai, the oldest stock exchange  in India is in Ahmedabad. A 93 years old heritage building of British architecture. Trading in stocks and finance are subjects of great interest here. Amdavadis are natural risk takers and well versed in the knowledge of compounding interest.

Every business meetings, stock exchange talks and gatherings happen over overflowing cups of tea and nasto (snacks)! There is scrumptious food for every reason and occasion. Making and sharing food is an integral part of the culture. Atithi (guests) are warmly welcomed with sweets like jalebis, sukhdi  and farsan like fafdas, ganthiyas  chevdo ( crispy and crunchy mouth-watering snacks)and so on.

More than anything else, it is the resilience, warmth and Gandhian values in the people that makes it a peace - loving place to be in. The city respects its women and is the safest cities in India.

People here firmly believe in philanthropy and the grace of giving back to society. The Mahajans (textile mill owners) were visionaries who used their resources and wealth to build several health and educational institutions as well as infrastructure to benefit the society. This legacy has been passed on to future generations, thus the prosperity lives  on…….

Everyday you hear delightful words like  Maja ma, Jaalsa, Kem chho, Saaru chhe on the lips of one and all.

These very elements come together making it one of the most dynamic and culturally rich city to be in!

Where else in the whole world do you find nine nights of non-stop swinging to vibrant colourful dance called Garbo in Navratri festival or thousands of kites that adorn the sky during Uttarayan(kite flying festival)?

Every festival, be it Eid, Diwali or Holi is celebrated with equal enthusiasm, grandeur and zest.

A spectacular ovation to the civilization, design, dimension and demeanor of Ahmedabad.

The city where Mahamta Gandhi spent more than twelve revolutionary years of his life. The city of the inception of Dandi Yatra (salt satyagrah) that shook the British Raj. The city which was the foundation of the Non-violence movement, makes us happy and proud indeed.

Our city has been handed over to us by our ancestors. Let’s keep it cleaner, make it brighter and better and carry forward its true spirit and soul!